House Renovations

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   07/05/2008, 7:30
Nick Trollope is not online. Last active: 04/12/2008 07:41:36 Nick Trollope



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Broons, Dept 22
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Re: Putting in own electrics
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 Le Plombier wrote:

I have said this before and I will say it again

I am glad that I am just a plumber

Le Plombier



Perhaps we all are? No, sorry - I'll 'fess up to something - I registered as a plumber 'cos the girl at the Ch de M said I could (despite having no quals & little/no experience) - soon deregistered when I realised that whilst electricity hurts, water is cold and is much more destructive... And quite alot of it smells.

Good luck to yer LP!



 

Nick

www.aplaceinfrance.com
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   07/05/2008, 7:31
Nick Trollope is not online. Last active: 04/12/2008 07:41:36 Nick Trollope



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Re: Putting in own electrics
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 powerdesal wrote:
What is an acceptable reading of earth resistance?  A site electrical engineer here told me that 0.5 ohms is ok but I want to confirm it as it seems a bit high to me.


Oh, I dunno, anything more than a fortnight?


 

Nick

www.aplaceinfrance.com
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   07/05/2008, 12:27
Punch is not online. Last active: 26/11/2008 21:29:39 Punch

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Re: Putting in own electrics
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 powerdesal wrote:
What is an acceptable reading of earth resistance?  A site electrical engineer here told me that 0.5 ohms is ok but I want to confirm it as it seems a bit high to me.

The minimum acceptable earth electrode resistance accepted by the Consuel in France for a 500 milliamp EDF trip is 99.99 ohms ( ie: below 100 ohms). This is a lot higher in France because most installtions have to be earth spiked wherby the Uk often uses a combined Earth and Neutral at the origin.

Depending on your ground conditions, this can be either fairly easy or almost impossible to achieve ! I often have to place 2 electrodes and the lowest I have achieved in the last 11 years of working here on a domestic installation is around 17 ohms .

Regarding the mini debate about "Meggers;"  Most old school Sparkies who did apprenticeships would still relate a Megger to an insulation resistance tester, rather than an earth electrode resistance tester, although that company obviously produces both. (Just like Makita used to be the only decent battery driver on the market when they first started to appear in the 80's).

The early Meggars used to have a wind up handle to produce the 500/1000V test voltage - used to be great fun seeing who could hold the croc clips for the longest whilst the other party wound it up !!! Cry Out [:'(]

www.punchardrenovation.com

 

 

 


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   07/05/2008, 17:26
melmoth is not online. Last active: 29/08/2008 07:03:42 melmoth

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Re: Putting in own electrics
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My God! OK already, so iI should let the electrician do it - point taken.
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   07/05/2008, 17:30
Clair is not online. Last active: 27/11/2008 15:19:40 Clair



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Re: Putting in own electrics
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Good move Melmoth! Big Smile [:D]

Clair
Real Virtual French Person

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   07/05/2008, 17:32
geoff is not online. Last active: 06/05/2008 13:36:45 geoff



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Re: Putting in own electrics
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 melmoth wrote:
My God! OK already, so iI should let the electrician do it - point taken.

 

 

 

MERCI


G
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   07/05/2008, 17:41
Le Plombier is not online. Last active: 11/11/2008 17:43:01 Le Plombier

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Re: Putting in own electrics
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I guess that's the end of that then

Le Plombier


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   07/05/2008, 18:20
geoff is not online. Last active: 06/05/2008 13:36:45 geoff



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Re: Putting in own electrics
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Please do-not hold your breath plum.
G
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   14/05/2008, 4:21
Lomelec is not online. Last active: 14/05/2008 02:26:14 Lomelec

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Re: Putting in own electrics
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Sorry - I can't resist adding my 10 cents worth....

Getting electrical circuits to work is a fairly easy thing to do and installing a consumer unit is not that difficult for anyone with a degree of common sense. Once connected up and switched on there is every chance that the system will work without electricity leaking out of wires and joints etc. So.. Fill yer boots.

The part that needs the experience and knowledge is the ability to design and install the system so that it is unlikely to develop a fault throughout its life, and in the event of a fault developing, it is able to automatically safely disconnect the power before the fault poses a significant risk of electric shock and or fire. 

There are three ways to do this. 

1- Consider every possible eventuality of something going wrong, include all detremental environmental influences as well as everything the users of the installation, be they adults, elderly, infirm or children, can do to accidentally or deliberatley abuse the installation. Risk assess each consideration and include facilities in the design and construction to safely deal with these eventualities without causing unreasonable restrictions on the use of the installation. Get a regulatory body to accept your risk assesment and method statements so that if the system should fail you have some recourse. Then, after the installation is complete, verify that all the precautions meet the design specification by subjecting the installation to physical testing and visual inspection.  

2- Study a design criteria that has been written by someone else that is already accepted and approved by all the relevent authorities, spend around 4 years learning and practicing the techniques and theoretical concepts in applying this design criteria to any given installation. Pass all the required exams and demonstrate that you have the skills necessary to complete and test the installation to verify that the criteria has been met.

3- Get someone who has already spent the 4 years training and has passed the exams to install it for you.


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