Trouble is if you prepare food on your tops the linseed oil can taint easily. I treat my wooden kitchen surfaces with olive oil - it takes a while to soak in but I can prepare food on them without problem.
Lucinda
Excellent Lucinda! Although unless you're careful with the surfaces, olive oil easily marks BUT is easily repaired.
This is a butchers block (should've cleaned it before taking piccy!) built from end grain Beech & the surface has been soaked in olive oil several times, I was sceptical using olive oil at first but using it on end grain surfaces is just fine.
By the way; it doesn't fit into what I have in mind for my new house so it's going if anyone's interested PM me, I think it's Victorian in good condition and has an Oak cupboard with Elm doors....and is very heavy!
What about Danish oil. It's food safe when dry and once again easy to 'repair' if it gets marked and almost certainly more hard wearing than olive oil. Also, I was under the impression the olive oil would go rancid after a while exposed to the air and light?
If you want to go down the veg oil route, I have used sunflower oil on things like babies rattles that I make and that works very well and is completely edible (if they had the teeth to do so?)!!
Jonzjob wrote:What about Danish oil. It's food safe when dry and once again easy to 'repair' if it gets marked and almost certainly more hard wearing than olive oil.
What about Danish oil. It's food safe when dry and once again easy to 'repair' if it gets marked and almost certainly more hard wearing than olive oil.
No varnish in Danish oil. http://www.triedandtruewoodfinish.com/danish.htm
Very good for hard wearing surfaces though...
Long QA session still going on:-
http://www.completefrance.com/cs/forums/1092589/ShowPost.aspx
Retread
Whoops double post sorry but, The Finishing oil I was given from England did leave a deposit on the surface and I had been assured it was 'danish' Oil so i stand corrected.
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