Philip's Blog

The Final Day !!!!!

We were all aware that the final day was a long walk with five climbs and an overall descent of well over 5,000 feet, so we set off at a racing pace with Sharon in front. Pacemakers changed from time to time, but we maintained a cracking speed and enjoyed a picnic lunch looking down on the Med from the Pic de Sailfort. On the way down from the rocky crag we met up with Sally Shrimpton who had come up to meet us. The long walk down to Banyuls through the famous vineyards was in blazing sunshine. We reached the outskirts of the town at 3.30 and changed from walking boots to sandals so that we could walk straight into the sea. The pebbled beach was packed with late-season sunbathers who were bewildered to see us walkers arrive. Ruth and the welcoming committee of Julia, Jon, Lola, Steve and Nicola, Brenda and John and Caroline, had set up a finishing tape which I walked through before plunging into the refreshing waters of Banyuls Bay. Champagne was sprayed and drunk, cups presented and two hours of shoreline merriment ensued. We all patted ourselves on the backs and basked in the glory of our individual achievements. It will take a long time for it all to sink in, but the initial reaction is one of amazement that one's mind can bully one's body into to doing something that should be well beyond its capabilities.

Day 49

Mike Shrimpton rejoined us at Las Illas for the last two days of walking. With the two German lads we are now ten! The walk was tedious, around 25km, much of it on tracks and little-used roads. But the reward at the end of a long day was the Chalet de l'Albère, a stunningly positioned refuge on a natural balcony looking west. Dinner and beers on the terrace as the sun set over Canigou was magical.

Thursday 31st August

Breakfasted on five different types of honey. The gite owners are renowned throughout the area for their honeys and sell them daily at local markets. Set off for the dramatic Roche de France, a craggy peak on the French/Spanish border. On the way we stumbled upon a once-ruined farm that eemed to have been taken over by hippies. As we passed by we got into conversation with a 20-something blonde girl who turned out to be English. She was on an assignment for the World Organisation for Organic Farming and what looked like an illegal squat was actually an organic farm. But it was in the middle of nowhere. The nearest road was more than half an hour's slog away! After another hour or so of climbing we reached the peak and took an hour-long lunch break gazing at distant views of the Spanish Pyrenees disappearing into a heat haze 100 miles away. Just before it was time to set off again a group of Ospreys flew overhead, a rare and thrilling sight. The beech forest on the French side of the border ridge was simply majestic. We met up with two German lads, Toby and Fabian and walked in to Las Illas, a small village with two Gites d'étape and a restaurant. Afet some beers with the German lads we checked into our gite before having a well-deserved restaurant meal.

Wednesday 30th August

Yesterday's walk went horribly wrong in the afternoon. We missed the signs and ended up map reading our way through dense woodland to the hamlet where our gite was. Only it wasn't. The hamlet was the postal address, the gite was another hour away. We arrived at 8.30pm, the longest day's walk of the whole trip. It was too late for dinner, so we emptied all the food from our seven rucksacks and amazingly created a feast of smoked duck breast, paté, sausage, salad, bread, foie gras, mackerel fillets, tuna and three different types of cheese. We even persuaded the gite owner to sell us some red wine. It was like feeding the 5,000, we seemed to have more left at the end than we'd started with.

Tuesday, 29th August

There are 7 of us walking now: we've met up with some hardy Brits who are camping at nights by the refuges: David, Sharon and nephew Christian -- good companions on the mountains with lots of experience and some amazing tales of places David and Sharon have been, around the globe. Long descent to Arles-sur-Tech this morning. We had a close shave not long after setting off when Patrick, my stalwart walking companion for so many days over the last 6 weeks, stumbled forward and, propelled by the impetus of his backpack, fell headfirst over a steep drop, several feet onto boulders. By great fortune he was only grazed and bruised: nothing broken except his watch strap.It could have been a very nasty accident indeed. Typical Patrick: no fuss; some homeopathic aid from David and Sharon, who know about these things and had Arnica tablets and plasters to hand. Once dusted down he strode off with the group despite an obviously painful leg. This update takes me to lunchtime in Arles-sur-Tech where we're enjoying a decent French lunch before an afternoon climb up to a gite near the Spanish border. I can't believe this is day 47 of my 50 day odyssey: 833kms walked and a total climb of 150,000feet! Not long now.

Monday, 28th August

Our room in the chalet de Cortalets faced east, and we could see the Med far below in the distance, so we'd decided the night before to rise before dawn and watch the sunrise over the sea. Well worth the discipline as the orange/red orb broke above the distant cloud spot on time to gasps of appreciation from all who'd risen for the spectacle. Mike and Sally had arranged to walk the day with us, while their friends and family took the vehicles the long way round to the end point of the day at the old Mines de Batere. Our path took us past the remnants of an air crash dating back several decades. Mount Canigou used to be feared by pilots for its capacity to interfere with navigational instruments (the mountain contains large reserves of iron ore). Our Auberge at the end of the day used to be the hostel where the iron miners lived, until the mines ceased to be worked in the 1960s I'm told. The auberge now offers wonderful views, the best hot showers of my whole trip and a magnificent supper to boot. And for those not up to walking the mountains, you can reach it by a metalled road.We said goodbye to Mike and Sally, but we'll be meeting them again in a few days.

Sunday, 27th August

Walked around western traverse of Pic du Canigou with Patrick, Angus and brother Tony (he's my brother, not a monk!), and found one of the best picnic spots in the pyrenees with a view to die for. After a day of perfect weather and arguably the best panoramic vistas of the whole trip we arrived at the chalet de Cortalets to find a surprise party who'd secretly arranged to come and meet up and stay the night: great friends Mike and Sally Shrimpton and family. They live only a few miles away as the crow flies but a 4-hour journey by car, due to the topography around here! A wonderful supper and camaraderie enjoyed by all. What a wonderful surprise. Thanks for that, all concerned.

Saturday, 26th August

Son-in-law Jon's last day. A big climb to a refuge in the shadow of the mystical Catalan mountain, Pic du Canigou. Hot sunshine made the walk a little harder. Stopped in the little hamlet of Py for a coffee but it was lukewarm. The village shop had fewer than 20 items for sale. Angus rejoins us tonight, along with my brother, Tony. Tomorrow we must decide whether to walk around Canigou on the GR10 or to attempt the difficult variant over the summit. We'll decide over a beer or two. So far I've walked 780kms and climbed 150,000 feet - only six days to go!

Friday, 25th August

An easier day but, with a 2,000 feet descent, Jon began to suffer badly from blisters so, to cheer him up, we had lunch at an Auberge when we arrived in Mantet after five hours of walking. Our gîte at Mantet was luxurious compared with last night's and we enjoyed piping-hot showers and uncrowded sleeping accommodation. It rained all afternoon and, by the time the other three English walkers arrived at 5pm, our gîte was full so they had to walk on.

Thursday, 24th August

Patrick has rejoined me for the final nine days - he'll have walked 19 days with me by the time we reach Banyuls, some 340kms. What a star! Jon, too, has bravely donned his walking boots for the next three days. The morning climb to the Coll Mitja - a total of 3,850 feet - was tough for Jon, particularly as the air is thin at nearly 8,000 feet, but he coped really well. We arrived at our refuge in fog so thick we almost bumped into it before we saw it. The Refuge du Ras de la Caranca is easily the most basic so far - no water, no electricity and 25 people sleeping next to one another in a small dormitory. Still, the meal by candlelight was good.

Wednesday, 23rd August

A long, easy walk through forest trails, over ski pistes and around pretty lakes. Mainly downhill but, nevertheless, tiring doing 18kms in 29C of blazing sun. Saw the famous 'little yellow train' on the way to the gîte at Planes. Steve and Nicola have brought Patrick and Jon who will be joining me tonight, so today has been my last day of walking alone.

Tuesday, 22nd August

Quite an easy day compared to some. A long walk through a dramatic ocean of boulders, then climbs overlooking bright-blue lakes. Saw a marmotte at very close quarters - they're like giant guinea pigs. Arrived at Lac Bouillouses in good time so celebrated with a cool beer. Today was the 40th day of consecutive walks and the tally so far is 720kms and 140,000ft (Yes, really!) - and there are still ten days of walking before I can wade into the Mediterranean at Banyuls-sur-Mer on September 1st.

Monday, 21st August

Joined again by Martin and Anne from Norfolk. We climbed 4.500 feet and were surrounded by breathtaking scenery. Saw two lammergeyers at a distance and heard marmottes whistling their warnings. The best weather for about three weeks - not a cloud in the sky. Arrived at the Refuge at Bésines tucked below the conical peak of Pedrous. Had a beer with Martin before he and Anne headed off for another 2hrs30 walk to meet up with their son. Over dinner I met two walkers from Israel, two from Switzerland, one from Andorra and two police officers from the UK with their adult nephew. Between us we put the world to rights.

Sunday, 20th August

I was looking forward to an easy day as the guide book said it was a five-hour walk. It took me eight hours! Still, the gîte in Mérens looks great and Martin and Anne and son Fraser have joined me and we're walking together again tomorrow. It was great to see Ruth, Julia, Jon and Lola again. It would be impossible without such a great back-up team.

Saturday, 19th August

A long, long walk today, made better by finding a mountain restaurant open. Blueberry tart has never tasted better. A long and scary traverse took me to the Refuge de Rulhe. Slept in a dormitory with eight others, one Dutchman had 'wind' all night - the original 'Dutch oven'!. A German Frau on the next mattress pulled my blanket off me in the middle of the night. I suspect it was to stop me snoring.